Monday 14 October 2013

Weddings, walnuts, exes and sad dirty truths

There was a wedding. Not a huge one, nor too boisterous. It was a little stiff, with much joy however, on a cold crisp day.

There were exes present. Plus fluffy new partners. Kids darting off. Teetering heels getting trapped in the cobbles.

A certain young soprano we all know sang an aria beautifully, in a frescoed chamber.

Later, at the other end of the day there was a big dancing party at the ranch here. My homie DJ mates delivered us into soul heaven and I swapped my spiky boots for some chunky heels and grooved.

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But as we danced and recovered and cracked walnuts the day after, there were other, larger events happening along the peninsula.

Way down south, near an Italian island that lies not far from the Tunisian coast, people were crowded into a leaky vessel that would soon find its way to the bottom of the sea. Three hundred lives were lost. It has been said that a fire was lit to attract attention when engine trouble slowed the boat. The fire took hold and people pushed to one side of the vessel, causing it to capsize. The boat was within sight of the shore. Despite valiant efforts by locals and coastguard, most people drowned.


Days afterwards, when bodies were still being recovered, another disaster occurred. More drownings. More coffins lined up along the shore, teddy bears for kids who've probably never held a teddy bear in their lives.

In Italy these boats arrive every day and they are not turned away. Or shot at. Nor are people put in camps. They are clothed, fed, medicated. They begin the long legal path towards possessing a visa or, if necessary, are simply sent home. But every time I stop to think about this - as everyone in the country has over the past two weeks - I wonder what type of determination is required to undertake this perilous journey. Even in a sound vessel the sea at night is treacherous - have you ever been cupped in its waves? And on a leaky vessel as a fearful non-swimmer, with no life-jackets, depth sounders, good captaincy or enough fuel, I can't imagine the level of terror. Is it foolishness to hand your life over to these human traffickers? Or does the blind desire to reach Europe cancel everything else out?

Once I employed a West African guy, a friend of a friend, to help me plant a row of trees. The guy was a rascal and we got talking. He'd come over in a boat. Twice in fact. The first time the boat broke down and they were sent back to shore - Libya it was, before the war. He lost his money and had to work as a labourer for another six months. Oh, and before that he said he'd crossed the Sahara (don't know if I believed that, but it was easier then). The second time he said they made it. I don't remember whether to Lampedusa or all the way to Sicily. On the way there were bodies thrown overboard. The sick, the weak. This guy was tough. He dug deep holes in moments, swinging the pick with huge muscly arms. He was a survivor. A rascal, but a hard worker. I'm sure he's flourishing somewhere.


The saddest story to emerge from last week's events is a mother and her newborn son discovered in the shipwreck. Why did a seven-months' pregnant woman attempt this journey? To rejoin family members? To give her son an easier start in life? To escape a war-torn country?

We will never know. The divers who found her - grown men, heroes - broke down when they found her.

Our masks were full of tears, they said. Our masks were full of tears.

31 comments:

  1. How heartbreaking. I cannot imagine the combination of hope and desperation someone would feel as they make that journey.

    One a lighter note, I'm itching to know who got married.

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    1. There is a short story written by a brilliant Australian writer called Nam Le in his collection 'The Boat', telling of a journey made out of Saigon after the war. Really haunting stuff.

      Ahh the wedding.. The ex's family, so that's where it all gets tricky...

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    2. I love that Nam Le book, Cat. All of the stories are haunting.

      Here's to the souls of all those on board the boat....

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    3. Yes it is haunting! There was so much knowledge of life in that book.

      And yes, to those poor lost souls.

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  2. Replies
    1. Yes. But I am glad it is being spoken about. Did you read that article on the IRG page about the town of Riace (http://www.theguardian.com/world/2013/oct/12/italian-village-migrants-sea) ? Interesting to hear how the southern town is being revitalised by migrant artisans. Worrying to hear that each person is 'sponsored' to the tune of 25-30e a day. Oh dear, here comes a comment on corruption and Italian politicking! xcat

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  3. Heartbreaking Cat - we are facing the same issues here - but turning them around! Just too sad to think about and there but for the grace of God...

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    1. Yes every time I come to Australia something awful happens. I know every country has its politics and not all refugees are authentic, but I'm convinced so many of these boat people are simply in search of a new life, a clean home, decent schools, a job.. Xcat

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  4. Oh my. "Our masks were full of tears." Poetical and tragic.

    (PS - You won a book in my last contest)

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    1. I know, when I read that line my eyes filled.

      Gosh - can't believe I've won something! Have been meaning to read you up. I haven't won ANYTHING since a talking Bugs Bunny in 1st grade..

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  5. My god, that line, and the images that go with it...

    - Averil

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    1. Yes the images were too strong, and the descriptions lingering enough. I just wanted to show the sea, which always makes me fearful even though I think I am a good swimmer! How awful to be lost there.

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  6. It's so hard for me to hear these tragic stories although my first feeling was gratitude to you for reminding us that these boat disasters are filled with real people, each of them with their own story. I admit that sometimes the news is just so overwhelming and filled with so much heartache that I have to step away. Pace myself. Shake the visual images of the lost mothers and children out of my head or else it's too much.
    Now on a lighter note... I did enjoy your tidbits about the wedding. And I'm so glad you enjoyed it but where are the pictures? :)

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    1. I remember when we were young there were boat people arriving on Australian shores from south-east Asia and there were a bunch of quiet, super-intelligent kids in school, kids who were refined and noble even though they hadn't yet learnt our tongue. (I wrote one of my first stories about the racism rising from that. Sorry, don't know where that came from - memories stirred!)

      I've just checked and the only shot I have is the film of my daughter singing i.e. the phone passed from me to Fin, a lingering shot of my beloved handbag, and then An Extremely Undesirable Person whose head keeps cropping up! Just believe me, we danced hard.

      Shoulda snapped the decor though - how we worked. Xcat

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  7. Heartbreaking Just so so sad that these people live in such bad circumstances that they must risk their lives to try to find a better life. It is happening here in Aus also. I don't know what the answer is. Lyn

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    1. Yes it's so awful to see this happening day after day. I imagine it's gone on all the same after this tragedy. There is no answer really, because traffickers are making money and, well, lots of people are making money! And yet in the middle of all of this (of course there are rascals too!) are people who simply want to work hard and get on with it.
      Glad you were able to comment this time! best, cat

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  8. This was incredibly moving. Having Italian descent (my grandfather from Venice and grandmother from Sicily) I had no idea others would escape to Italy to make a better life. The part where you said, "Our masks were full of tears" really moved me. Will look forward to reading more of your blog.

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    1. Thanks for dropping by Gina and love your Japanese blog! Unfortunately I don't think much will change with this situation in Italy as there are so many people who appear to be taking advantage of these people! Awareness is the first step I suppose. Good luck in 2014.

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